Sunday, June 20, 2010

Can't do that in the Middle East

Last night, My Man went on a date with a theme of "We can't do this in S.A." It was my first time in Denver since we got back. We walked 16th Street with our arms snaked around each other's waists. We bought Tex-Mex and licked the guacamole from our fingers. We drank wine in the Mercury Cafe, toasting legal alcohol. Piano music shook the ceiling over our heads. Beneath the strung lights, everything glowed: the wine glasses, the zebras painted on our table, my husband's face.

The plan was to enjoy "Open Mic Poetry Night." I've never been to one before, even though I majored in poetry.

The first guy up stood on stage. He donned white sneakers with enormous tongues protruding from beneath black pants. His black shirt was buttoned crooked. He introduced himself and solemnly put on a pair of sunglasses before announcing he would not be doing poetry, but stand-up comedy.

"The only thing as awkward as being on stage is being in the audience!" he exclaimed. (He never said anything; he exclaimed everything.) "Cuz it's awkward, right!? So awkward. You're thinking, man, this is awkward!

He was amusing in a way he totally didn't intend.

Other amusing acts:
--The guy with half a head of slicked-back hair, who stood up and yelled:
"Rock the mic! Rock the mic! I don't f*#@ around, and I don't waste your time!"
He then proceeded to waste our time with some terrible poetry (I don't even remember the topic--it was that bad), punctuated with comments like, "This ain't no Starbucks, motherf*#@ers."

--The girl who leaned into the mic, closed her eyes, and moaned a whole lot of things I never wanted to know about her boyfriend.

--The skinny guy with dreadlocks to his waist that gave a 1940's-radio-broadcast-style poem about the death of America. Coroner's report: too much greed, oil and corruption clogging the arteries. This guy definitely got the most applause from me.

Friday, June 11, 2010

Letter to my friend

Today, I spent several hours composing and typing a short e-mail to my Saudi friend. After I finished writing, I plugged the Arabic into Google translate to do a little spelling grammar check. Here's how Google translated that e-mail:

"Sadiqpi dear
Good day.
How Halki? Fraser, tell you? All the daughters and your husband very willing, All
? A school Expire now
. Msteqlk many
Mark and I came back to America last week. We went to Spain first. Spain is very beautiful. Rod was purple, white, red, and yellow everywhere

. Lafraol ate better in my life. Hovena panel known

Now, I'm Mpsute that Shuf my family over the second. We talked and ate many

Unto Me and my mother will go and the city of Denver
The writer will betroth
I love this Kath
I was expressed

Sunday, my friend Ryan will marry
Aketbli when Tsttain
Tenet Thabn"

Uh-oh.

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Is it safe?

We're back in the States and over jet-lag. And we've experienced our first week of trying to condense a 10-month experience into a 30-second sound byte that your average listener will absorb as we try to process through what happened to us over there. Usually I don't get to share about the things that mattered to me; usually I answer people's questions about living in the Middle East.

The three questions that we've been asked the most are:

1. Did you have to cover up all the time? No.

2. What did you eat over there? Same things I eat here.

3. Is it safe? {Confusion and blank looks.}

It's the third question that is, for me, by far the most interesting. Not because I have an interesting answer, but because the question itself reveals a lot about the nature of humankind.

Anyone who would ask the question "Is it safe?" is basically asserting that there are places you can go in the world that are "safe" and places that you can go that aren't. They believe that if you go to Afghanistan, for instance, it isn't "safe," but if you stay in the American suburbs, it is. Maybe this belief is partially to blame on the sensationalist media, which only covers news stories of the Middle East that involve death and destruction. I mean, I don't think they would probably be asking that question if I had moved to Germany, or something. (Katie K, correct me if I'm wrong.)

But I think the main reason people believe there are "safe" places and "unsafe" places is because people are addicted to control, and they like to believe they have some sort of say over when they die, and how.

If there are "safe" and "unsafe" places, it means that you can put yourself in the driver's seat of your own life. Be captain of your own destiny. Choose a "safe" place, and you can wake up, drive to work, shop for groceries, take your kids to the park, go to church: All in the snug security of your "safe" world. You rest assured that you will grow old with your spouse, retire with a nice pension, and die peacefully one day in your sleep, probably at the age of 92.

This is a big, fat lie.

Unless you're committing suicide, you have absolutely no say whatsoever about how you die, or when.

Living in America does not make you immune to death and destruction. Cancer can find you when you're four years old. Another driver can blindside and kill you when you're 16. You can go for a hike in the Grand Canyon without a map and die of heat exhaustion at 25. I don't care where you live, you have absolutely no guarantee that you will see next week.

What do you mean, "Is it safe?" Haven't you noticed? This world isn't a safe place to be, if you're definition of "safe" is "free from the possibility of death."

...And maybe I shouldn't be writing this, but to be honest, the thing that bothered me most about the question "Is it safe?" is that it came from the mouths of people who claim to be believers in an all-powerful, sovereign God.

When you put God in the equation, you still have no control over when and how you die, but there is someone who does.

Now, let me be clear: God never promises that you won't die an early death under His watch. (Uh, Jesus did not die in His sleep at 92.) In the hands of God, "safety" doesn't mean freedom from death and destruction. It means that even death and destruction can't take you out of the hands of God.

But people who claim faith in a sovereign God still believe that if they just live in the suburbs, if they eat right and work out, if they don't smoke or drink, if they stick to low-risk sports, if they avoid those "unsafe" places on the other side of the world, they will not have to die before they choose. Maybe they won't say it like that, but the question "Is it safe?" betrays them. It is a hands-down denial of God's sovereignty.

Paul writes that while the words "peace and safety" are still on people's lips, destruction comes for them and catches them, the way a thief will steal from the man who flaunts his cash on the subway. They get cancer; they crash the car; they get lost in the desert. They die young. Or they die old. But they all die, one after the other, and not one of us can stop it when it comes for us.

I only hope that when death comes for me, in 60 years or tomorrow, I am safe in the hands of God.

Friday, May 21, 2010

Leaving home's a cinch

"Leaving home’s a cinch. It’s the staying, once you’ve found it, that takes courage." --Catherine Watson

Since graduating from college four years ago, I've lived in seven apartments in five cities. On average, I move twice a year. I've moved in with total strangers and with my best friends. I've lived alone. I've hauled several loads of possessions over the highway to a new place. I've whittled my possessions down to three bags and started over from scratch. Nearly always, I move places where I'm a complete stranger. Then I meet amazing people and grow close to them. Then I leave.

I've been trying to figure out why I do this. I'm the sort of person who likes to keep her options open. That's the beauty of short leases and transient roommates. You just keep moving on. What a strange phrase, "moving on," a phrase that never looks back. I'm always looking for the next thing, the next city, the next friends, the next home. I'm restless. Eyes always sweeping the horizon, waiting for something--that amazing something--to come over it.

I've come halfway around the world now. It would be difficult to move farther, either geographically or, for that matter, in any other way. I live in a region I once said I'd never even visit. I've held entire conversations in a language that I didn't understand a year ago. I've seen cities most people have never heard of. I've loved people who can only be found here, who can only be known in this place.

But I don't really think I'm home.

In seven places in five cities, I haven't found home yet. Because home is the place we come back to. A place we always know will be there. A place we know we will always belong.

That's why I call myself a stranger here. I'll always be a stranger, even if I stay five years, or 10, or 50. I could never call this place home, because I've seen what can happen to a city in a day--in an hour. You're a fool if you believe that your country, your city, your house is something that will always be there. It is like standing next to the ocean, watching the waves crash, and believing that your sand castle will stand forever. Look at all the greatest empires that have ever crawled the face of the earth. When it gets down to it, for every country, for every city, for every house, their fall is only a matter of time.

That's why I keep scanning the horizon. I'm still looking for a different city. One that doesn't shake when an earthquake hits. One that doesn't groan when a war comes. One that doesn't change after a hundred years, or a thousand.

One where, one day, I'll stay.

Sunday, May 16, 2010

A Modest Proposal

We have a new friend in al-Ballad named Ali. Ali's from Yemen, and he works this dusty junk shop filled with perfume, incense-holders, and brass goods that say "Saudi Arabia" in big letters on top and "Made in China" in tiny letters on the bottom. We met Ali last Christmas when we were on a mad search for gifts in a part of town where you can easily find Qurans, prayer rugs, abaayas, thobes, and shoes; but you can't find small souvenirs. Astounded by my extremely modest Arabic (I think I could only say "How much is this?" and "Please give me a discount" at the time), Ali and I had a blast bartering for everybody's gifts and trying to explain where we were from and what we were doing, again with my very limited language.

Anyway, when we visited his shop again four months later, he remembered us. I bet we're the only Americans who speak Arabic that have ever visited his store. So we hung around after haggling, practicing language.

"Who are the gifts for?" he asked in Arabic.

"Friends and family," I said.

"Are you traveling?"

"Yes, we will travel in one month."

"Where is your brother?" he asked, referring to Ryan, whom I refer to as my brother, generally.

"He's at the university. He will get married in the summer."

"You have a sister?" he asked.

"Yes."

"Is she younger or older than you?"

"She is younger, but taller."

"Is she married?"

"Why? Are you interested?" I asked, grinning.

Ali grinned back.

"Maybe."

I started to laugh.

"Ali, if you want to marry my sister, I need some gold from you. Not brass," I said, gesturing to the brass gifts I had just bought. I said that because in this society, the groom is required to give his bride a whole lot of jewelry as wedding gifts. That's why a lot of young Arab guys are single. No money, no marriage.

Ali made a sober face.

"Of course," he said. "If she will marry me, I will give her 100,000 riyal (about $37,500) in gold."

"Okay," I said, equally seriously. "I will ask her."

"Will she marry me?"

"I don't know. I will ask her."

"You're sweet, sister." (I didn't respond, because I didn't understand the word for "sweet"--I had to look it up later on Google Translate.)

Then, to seal the deal, he insisted on giving me a free, tiny bottle of perfume. My Man tried to pay him, but he just waved his hand at the money.

"Goodbye sister!" he said.

I took the proposal back to my sister a little later on Skype.

"Hey," I told her, "I have a proposal for you to make $37,500 next year. All you have to do is marry my friend Ali, have about 10 children, and cook and clean for him for the rest of your life. Room and board is included."

"Hm," she said. "That sounds right up my alley. Except the kids thing. Do I have to have kids?"

"Yes," I said, "unless you want to end up the first of several wives."

"I am probably going to require more gold. Like a million dollars worth."

So next time I see Ali, I'll see how the counter-proposal goes.

Saturday, May 1, 2010

A whole lotta thoughts on something I hate

Deciding to leave America means deciding never to think about America in the same way ever again. Living abroad, you find out that "American independence" has bred a culture where you don't know your neighbors' names. You start wincing every time another Hollywood heroine decides to sleep with a guy she met three days ago. Your cheeks burn in embarrassment whenever your Chinese friends recount, in eye-bugging detail, the last 50 years' worth of American politics, and you realize you don't know the name of the Chinese...oh no...is it president? Dictator? Emperor? (Sorry, I took four years of American history and two years of Colorado history and one year of European history, and that left me very little time to study things like Asia.)

But while you become increasingly disgusted by certain aspects of your own culture, you will begin to hold some values tighter, squeezing them until they become red-hot in your fist.

Values like: Equality.

Here at the university, we have what I like to call the Al-Jim Crow laws. They are meant specifically to segregate the "high class" (professors, students, families) from the "low class" (construction workers, janitors, lower-level staff). The Al-Jim Crow laws include:

1. Signs on things like drinking fountains or elevators that say "Construction workers and Saudi Oger workers may not use this (fill in the blank)." Last semester, the manager of the supermarket here put a sign on his front door: "Construction workers not allowed inside store." At that time, this supermarket was the only supermarket on campus. If construction workers were not allowed to buy food there, it meant that the only thing they could eat were the (think Oliver Twist here) company-provided meals. Long days in the 110-degree heat wouldn't be tempered with at least a cold bottle of water.
My rock-star friend Andi saw the sign on the door, marched inside, and demanded to see the manager. There, in the middle of the store, she chewed the guy out. She told him that what he was doing was wrong and unethical. She told him it was disgusting. She told him (even though he managed the only supermarket on campus) that if he didn't take the sign down, she would boycott the store.
More than anything, she embarrassed him in front of all his co-workers. She's just this little white girl. He's a huge Arab. And she verbally picked him up and threw him in the mud.
He took the sign down.
And another store worker followed her out of the store and literally gave her a huge hug.
"Thank you for reminding me that we are all human," he said.

2. Rules that prevent the "lower class" from using facilities like the rec center, the so-called public beach, the library, or the movie theater. Some of the rhetoric used to defend this position is that "If you were hired to clean windows at a country club, would you automatically be entitled to play golf there?"
Which sounds logical--except that, if you cleaned windows at a country club, you could always choose to walk down the street and see a movie. Or buy a gym membership. Or visit a public beach, or stroll in a public park...See, the thing about this is that the workers here aren't barred from one thing--they are barred from the entire mini-city where we live. They literally have no options for recreation. As if their 12-hour work days weren't bad enough.

3. Further rules that prevent the "lower class" from accepting invitations from the "higher class." For instance, my friend Tanja recently invited the rec center manager to a BBQ at her place, but he had to turn her down, because his management wouldn't allow it. I'd love for a trainer at the gym to come house sit this summer (cutting her commute by two hours a day and taking care of my cat), but again: forbidden by management. For an even more disgusting story, you can read this frustrating little piece.

All this stuff going on at the university makes me want to vomit. I feel like I'm part of a system of abuse--I enjoy all the privileges of the "high class" in this community, while my benefactors squash four times as many people all around me.

More than anything, I hate how this system dehumanizes people. It sends the message that I am important, I am entitled, I should have what I want...but those construction workers? They have no needs, they have no feelings, they have no families or cares in the world. They're really only here to serve me, anyway.

But, I mean, we don't have that problem in America. Everyone gets to walk in the park. Right?

But I'm starting to believe--really believe--that the problem isn't that this country has no labor laws. I'm starting to believe that this problem is that in our hearts, we all kind of have those people in our lives that are really only here to serve me.

You can write all the labor laws you want. You can make people take down the segregation signs. You can let people walk in your park. But in our hearts, something is as twisted as ever if we continue to see people only for what they do for us. And when they don't do what we want, we get angry, we get upset, we really lose it, because after all we're the important ones, and they exist simply to serve us.

Need an example?

Your waitress? She has a soul. She does not exist to bring you soft drinks. If you refuse to tip her because she let your glass sit empty for five minutes, you see her only as someone who exists to serve you.

The guy working the check-out stand at Target? He has a soul. He does not exist to swipe your groceries. If you blow your fuse because he didn't give you the correct discount, you see him only as someone who exists to serve you.

I could go on and on. The barista at Starbucks. The toll booth operator. The guy who renews your driver's license. They all have souls. They, just as well as you, might have had a bad day. They might have money problems, or relationship problems, or family problems. They have all kinds of feelings. They probably carry those things around in their souls all day, and when you order a cup of coffee, or pay 75 cents, or let some guy take your picture, they do not cease to be a human being with feelings and problems and dreams.

The problem never comes down to government. Government just changes how that dehumanization thing works itself out in real life. But the bottom of the problem is in the human heart.

And that's something only one Person can change.

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Nearly a villanelle

A Voice Like Thunder[1]

In the heat reduced by the shadow of a cloud,

past homes-turned-rubble you’ll find the place

that darkness covers like a shroud.


A dozen drowned here. Rain turned river ploughed

down this street like a bull at breakneck pace

in the heat reduced by the shadow of a cloud.


With its horns, the river, rushing and loud,

tossed men beneath this tunnel, a space

that darkness covers like a shroud.


In this desert wasteland of dust, how’d

anyone expect to be drowned or displaced

in this heat, reduced by the shadow of a mere cloud?


Eyes closed, we built houses on sand. We allowed

no warning voice to relocate that base.

Our self-made darkness covers like a shroud.


Groaning thunder meant little. We were too proud

to hear the birth pangs, to watch and to brace.

In the heat reduced by the shadow of a cloud,

how great is that darkness that covers like a shroud.



[1] Revelation 6:1